Fall Foliage in Kyoto 2009

We've been enjoying the fall colors here in Kyoto. The leaves have just peaked, and, thankfully, most of the tour buses have gone home. This is the only season when Shinyodo, the temple behind our house, gets crowded. Still, who can complain when it looks like this?


Here a picture of the steps leading up to Anraku-ji Temple, a fine little temple above the Path of Philosophy that is rarely open to visitors.


I snapped this fiery momiji (Japanese maple) on the way home today. It is near Kurodani Temple.

Kuizome: The First Solid Meal

Today, we celebrated the ritual of "kuizome" for my son Kieran. Kuizome is celebrated when a baby is 100 days old. It involves the ritual symbolic consumption of seki-han (rice with beans), octopus, tai (sea bream) and a stone. Seki-han and tai are eaten on many celebratory occasions in Japan, while octopus and the stone are "eaten" to insure that the child develops strong teeth and the ability to eat anything.

Here are the dishes for the kuizome ritual. The stones are on the left. We were given these lovely lacquerware bowls and the tray by the local Shinto shrine on the occasion of my son's first shrine visit.


Here is my wife, my son Kieran, and my sister-in-law Sachiyo.


Here is Kieran with a big old leg of octopus. He looks pretty calm considering the sea monster that's being presented to him.

Kieran William

Here's a picture of my son, Kieran William, that my wife took this morning.

Japan's Ancient Pilgrimage Route: Kumano-Kodo

The other day, I went to Wakayama-ken to explore the Kumano-Kodo, an ancient pilgrimage route through the steep mountains of southern Kansai. I was shown around by Brad Towle, a young Canadian who works for the local government. Brad speaks fluent Japanese and knows the area like the back of his hand. His enthusiasm for the area is obvious and his insights were incredible. Brad is employed by the forward-thinking Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. They have done great work making the pilgrimage route foreigner-friendly: they've created English maps, trained local ryokan and minshuku in how to deal with foreigners, and translated menus at lots of restaurants in Tanabe City. I believe that organizations like this are the future of Japanese tourism. If you want to get a look at "real Japan," a few days walking the Kumano-Kodo is a great way to do it. For more on the route, check out their site: Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau.

Here's a picture taken from the village of Takahara on the route.


Here's a small teahouse along the way.


Here's a typical shrine above the village of Takahara.


Here's a picture of Kumano Hongu Taisha, the goal of the pilgrimage.