These are the best high-end ryokan in Kyoto, in rough order of preference. I’ve personally inspected all the places on this list.
Tawaraya: Tawaraya isn’t just the best ryokan in Kyoto – it may be the best ryokan in Japan. There are even some who call this the finest accommodation in the world. It’s a magical sanctuary that you’ll never want to leave. The service is supernaturally good here: they know what you want before you do. This is the place to sample the Japanese ryokan experience. Pros: Perfect service, lovely gardens, beautiful rooms, superb food, convenient downtown location. Cons: Can’t think of any.
Hiiragiya: Located directly across the street from the Tawaraya, the Hiiragiya is a polished ryokan thoroughly at home with foreign guests. There are immaculate rooms in the new wing, but I like the wabi-sabi patina of the rooms in the old wing. Pros: Great food, excellent service, beautiful gardens, convenient downtown location. Cons: Less intimate in scale than some other inns.
Ugenta: All the way up in the tiny hamlet of Kibune (one valley over from Kurama and its famous temple), Ugenta is a rare find. The inn is divided into two exquisite units (and they only accept two groups per evening). One side is Western-style – all smooth wood and modern furnishings – the other is traditional Japanese – with sublime old Japan touches. Both units have indoor baths and private outdoor baths that face the mountainside. This would be a brilliant spot for a romantic getaway (and it’s just 30 minutes by taxi from Kyoto). Pros: Giant apartment-size private units, all the mod cons, the latest in Japanese design, great food, impossibly quaint village location. Cons: Nothing to do in the village at night (but, you’d be crazy to want to leave the inn, so this doesn’t really matter).
Tamahan: Designed as a “hidden ryokan,” Tamahan really does feel like a hidden refuge in the city. Located on my favorite pedestrian-only alley in Kyoto, Ishibei-koji, this inn may be the best located ryokan in Kyoto. Rooms look out over a fantastic inner garden and the decorations are museum quality. Pros: Brilliant location, excellent food, huge rooms. Cons: Very expensive.
Hoshinoya: No ryokan in Kyoto comes close to Hoshinoya for dramatic approach: a private boat will whisk you up the Oigawa River to a boat landing, where the staff will greet you and escort you to your room. Surrounded by greenery, overlooking the rushing waters of the river, this place feels like a completely different world from Kyoto, but a quick trip back down the river brings you to the bustling Arashiyama tourist district. The design here is modern Japanese and the feeling is of extreme privacy. Pros: Magical river approach, fantastic riverside setting, slick modern design. Cons: A bit of a hike to downtown.
Hatanaka: Right on the doorstep of Yasaka-jinja Shrine and Maruyama-koen Park, Hatanaka is a spacious modern ryokan with some expansive beautifully decorated rooms and a young manager who knows how to serve foreign guests. They put on regular geisha entertainment and the food is first-class. Pros: Right in the heart of the Southern Higashiyama sightseeing district, comfortable with foreign guests. Cons: A bit large for some people’s taste.
Seikoro: Once you step into the secluded entryway, it’s like you’ve stepped into another world. The Seikoro is a classic ryokan with almost flamboyant decorative touches that recall art nouveau. All rooms look over lovely gardens and have fine wooden bathtubs. Pros: Attentive service, lovely décor, comfortable with foreign guests. Cons: Gojo-dori location is somewhat inconvenient (but, it’s close to a subway station and within walking distance of Kiyomizu-dera and Gion).
Yoshida Sanso: Like the name suggests, this superb ryokan is located up on Yoshida-yama, a beautiful hill in the northeast part of town. The rooms here are beautiful and the food is wonderful, but the location is the real attration here: walk out the door and in a few minutes, you’ll find yourself in some of Kyoto’s most beautiful (and seldom visited) temples. Pros: Stunning location, beautiful front garden, warm service. Cons: A fair distance from downtown.
Please note that this list is just one man’s opinion. Ranking these wonderful ryokan is like choosing a favorite Beatles record or Thai Island: They’re all so good, it’s almost pointless to play favorites. One thing is for sure: A night in any of these ryokan will be an unforgettable experience. Keep checking this blog: in future posts, I’ll list my favorite mid-range and budget ryokan.
