Auberge Homachi is a collection of superbly restored Japanese townhouses (machiya) in one of the most charming towns of the Japan Sea coast. It’s the perfect combination of modern comfort and ancient traditions.
Mikuniminato street view
Best of all, Auberge Homachi is only 20 minutes from Awara Onsen Station, which is only 23 minutes from Kanazawa on the newly extended Hokuriku Shinkansen Line, and only 1 hour and 22 minutes from Kyoto.
Europe is filled with small, picturesque villages and small cities where you can stay in atmospheric accommodations and spend a few days exploring the place – poking into local shops, interacting with local traditions and eating in a variety of restaurants serving excellent regional cuisine. I hear almost daily from consulting clients and readers of my blogs that they’d like to recreate this experience in Japan.
Example of an Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato house exterior
Amazingly, that is a lot easier said than done. There are few towns in Japan where much of the traditional architecture remains: Most of it has been replaced by drab and utilitarian structures. Pre-war wooden architecture only exists in small pockets, often just one street or a block or two with a few houses, like islands of a forgotten past. And where significant numbers of old houses do remain, they are often far out in the countryside, so there’s no hope of finding a selection of good local restaurants within walking distance of your lodgings.
Auberge Homachi evening exterior
The Mikuniminato district of Fukui Prefecture’s Sakai City is one place where you can actually enjoy the experience described above. Mikuniminato was an important port along the Kitamaebune (“north-bound ships”) trade route that flourished during the Edo and early Meiji period (roughly the 1600s to the late 1800s). Ships on this route carried goods between Hokkaido and Osaka. Vast fortunes were made and some of that wealth is still visible in the fine wooden structures, shophouses and cultural artefacts of Minukiminato.
Kondo Kobijutsu Antiques exterior
Unlike many such port towns on the Kitamaebune route, most of the traditional buildings in the heart of the port town have been preserved and maintained in excellent condition. The district is a pleasant maze of quiet streets and lanes where one can wander for hours, stopping at whim to check out interesting stores, cafes and restaurants.
In early 2024, Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato opened in the heart of the charming Mikuniminato district. Described as a “dispersed accommodation,” Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato consists of nine beautifully restored traditional townhouses (machiya), containing a total of 16 accommodation units and one fantastic restaurant that combines superb local ingredients with the finest French cooking techniques and traditions. The machiya have all been updated with modern comforts like heating, air-conditioning, beautiful showers and baths, and simple kitchen areas, as well as raised beds for those who find futons a bit of a challenge.
Kikko House interior
Four of the machiya are fully private, and the remaining five machiya contain two or more “apartments.” Regardless of which you choose, you will find them decorated with superb local arts and crafts. A particular favorite is the Tatewaku House, which has a wonderful circular bathtub overlooking a small private garden.
Tatewaku bath
Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato has a central reception area in the heart of the district. Nearby is Auberge Homachi’s superb Tateru Yoshino Minkuniminato restaurant. As mentioned above, it’s a French-style restaurant that showcases some of the area’s wonderful seafood and agricultural products. It’s within easy walking distance of each of the machiya, so you can lazily stroll to breakfast or dinner. An evening constitutional before or after dinner is likely to be a highlight of your visit.
Tateru Yoshino
Of course, there are many other dining options in Mikuniminato, ranging from casual cafes to proper sushi restaurants. And for those who need a break from eating out, as mentioned before, there are simple kitchen facilities in each unit. You can also have food delivered to your unit.
Tateru Yoshino cuisine
Auberge Homachi Mikuniminatio can arrange English-speaking guides to take you through the district, explaining the port town’s fascinating history as you go. A stop at the Kondo Kobijutsukan (Kondo Kobijutsu Antique Shop) is a must. Here you can see the intricated fashioned money and document chests that each ship carried: they are among the finest examples of the Japanese genius for woodworking you’ll find anywhere. Indeed, one wonders if anyone could make such things today.
Kondo Kobijutsu Antique Shop interior
Near to Mikuniminato, you’ll find the wonderful hot springs at Awara Onsen and Yamanaka Onsen. Nature lovers will appreciate the dramatic rocky coastal scenery of Tojinbo Cliffs. And just under an hour away is the city of Kanazawa, with its world-class museums and gardens. Likewise, just over an hour to the south is Kyoto, which needs no introduction.
Tojinbo coastline
Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato and the rest of Mikuniminato is about 20 minutes by car from Awara Station, on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line. Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato will happily arrange car transfer in both directions for guests.
Name in English:
Auberge Homachi Mikuniminato
Name in Japanese:
オーベルジュほまち 三國湊
English address:
913-0045 Minamihonmachi, Mikuni-cho, Sakai City, Fukui Prefecture
3-4-39
Japanese address:
〒913-0045 福井県坂井市三国町南本町3丁目4-39
Price: Luxury
Nearest Transport:
20 minutes from Awara Onsen Station on the Hokuriku Shinkansen Line
Telephone: 81-776-82-0070
Website: official website
:: Check availability and pricing for Aurberge Homachi Mikuniminato on Booking.com or Agoda.com.
Kyoto Vacation Checklist
- For all the essentials in a brief overview, see my First Time In Kyoto guide
- Check Kyoto accommodation availability on Booking.com and Agoda.com - often you can book with no upfront payment and free cancellation
- You can buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets online from Klook - popular routes include Tokyo to Kyoto, Kyoto to Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo
- Need tips on where to stay? See my one page guide Where To Stay In Kyoto
- See my comprehensive Packing List For Japan
- You can buy an eSim to activate in Japan or buy a data-only SIM card online for collection when you arrive at Tokyo's Narita or Haneda Airports or Kansai International Airport. You can also rent an unlimited data pocket wifi router
- Compare Japan flight prices and timings to find the best deals
- If you're making frequent train journeys during your visit, you might save money with Japan Rail Pass – see if it's worth it for you
- A prepaid Welcome Suica card makes travelling around Kyoto easy – here's how
- World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world
- Do you want help planning your trip? Chris Rowthorn and his team of Japan experts at Japan Travel Consulting can help