Hiking in the Japan Alps: Kamikochi to Mt Yari-ga-Take via the Daikiretto

The hike from Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take via the Daikiretto traverse is THE classic Japan Alps route. It’s three days and two nights of spectacular hiking among the highest peaks in Japan. Here are all the details.

Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take Hiking Introduction

The North Japan Alps, located in central Honshu, offers the best hiking in Japan. This mountain range includes several peaks over 3,000 meters, all connected by a network of well-maintained trails. Best of all, there’s an extensive mountain hut system that allows you to do traverses of up to one week carrying nothing but a daypack. You don’t even have to bring food and water, since all the huts serve meals, drinks and water. And, if you want to save money, you can camp at the sites around each hut.

The Daikiretto Traverse with Yari-ga-Take in the Background: Hachi888 / Shutterstock.com

One of the most spectacular hikes in the North Alps is the route from Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take, the so-called “Matterhorn of Japan.” This route takes you over the craggy peaks of the Hodaka Range and then across the famed – and feared – Daikiretto traverse. With hair-raising drops on either side, this knife-edged ridge is a rite of passage for Japanese climbers.

Actually, the traverse that leads to the Daikiretto, from Hodaka-Dake Sanso Hut to Kita-Hodaka Koya Hut, is actually more intense and exposed. Both traverses would be considered technical climbs in many other countries. But, the Japanese have installed all kinds of ironmongery like chains, ladders, bolts and bridges to make it passable for non-technical climbers. Indeed, this route actually feels a little like one of the “via ferrata” (iron ways) in the European Alps.

Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take Hiking Map

For a full map of the route, see Route Map at the end of this article.

Mt Yari-ga-Take: syuwansyuwan / Shutterstock.com

A Note on Japanese Climbing Words

There are several Japanese climbing words you’ll come across on this hike. Note that they are added to the end of names (as in Yari-ga-Take or Mt Yari).

• take/dake: mountain, pronounced “tah-kay” or “dah-kay”
• sanso: mountain hut/lodge, pronounced “sahn-so”
• koya: mountain hut/lodge, pronounced “koi-ya”
• sawa: valley or ravine, pronounced “sah-wah”
• onsen: hot spring bath, pronounced “own-sen”
• taira/daira: plain or tableland, pronounced “tie-rah” or “die-rah”

We drop the English words and just use the Japanese terms in this article to save space.

Here are the main mountains on this route:

• Mae-Hodaka-Dake (前穂高岳): 3090 meters
• Oku-Hodaka-Dake (奥穂高岳): 3190 meters
• Kara-Sawa-Dake (涸沢岳): 3103 meters
• Kita-Hodaka-Dake (北穂高岳): 3106 meters
• Minami-Dake (南岳): 3032 meters
• Yari-ga-Take (槍ヶ岳): 3180 meters

When to Hike in the Northern Japan Alps

The official climbing season in the Japan Alps runs from late May until the end of September. Most mountain huts are open during this period, and a few big ones open a little earlier and stay open a little later. Snow usually starts to fall in October and there can be snow on the higher trails until mid-May. You can climb outside of the official climbing season, but you’ll need to carry everything, including winter climbing gear. And do not attempt this hike in the snowy months unless you are an experienced mountaineer. These mountains are no joke in any season, and in winter, they are deadly for all but the most competent winter mountaineers.

The Northern Japan Alps from Kamikochi: sadao / Shutterstock.com

Route Description

This hike starts at the mountain village of Kamikochi (see Getting to Kamikochi at the end of this article for transport details). The route climbs quickly up through Dake-Sawa to Mae-Hodaka-Dake, then across Oku-Hodaka-Dake and down to Hodaka-Dake Sanso, where you spend your first night. You then make the hair-raising traverse to Kita-Hodaka-Dake, and then descend into the Daikiretto traverse, which connects to Minami-Dake. From there, it’s an easy walk with a few ups and downs to Yari-ga-Take and Yari-ga-Take Sanso, where you spend your second night. From there, you descend through Yari-Sawa to Shin-Hodaka Onsen, where you can take a hot spring bath before boarding the bus back to civilization.

Yari-ga-Take with autumn colors: sadao / Shutterstock.com

Difficulty

This hike is for fit, experienced hikers. There’s a lot of vertical gain and even with a light pack, there are some real lung-busting climbs on the route. The two big traverses are serious, exposed and dangerous. If you have any fear of heights, do not do this hike. This hike is suitable for agile teenagers, but don’t bring younger children – even if they can handle the heights, you’ll be too nervous to enjoy the hike.

Hodaka-Dake Sanso Hut: Japan Image / Shutterstock.com

Equipment, Clothing and Food

Assuming you plan to sleep and eat in the mountain huts, you’ll need to bring hiking clothes appropriate for the season, with changes of undergarments for three days. At the beginning and end of the hiking season, you’ll need a bit of warm weather gear. We strongly recommend some grippy work gloves for the traverses, where you’ll be grabbing on to all the metal holds (do NOT wear fleece or wool gloves, which will slip). You should also bring snacks, Japanese yen cash (you cannot use credit cards in the mountain huts), a water bottle, and good earplugs (for sleeping in the mountain huts). We also recommend Shobunsha’s Yama-to-Kogen Yari-ga-Take/Hodaka-Dake map, which is available at bookstores in Japan (its in Japanese, but you can figure out where you are by looking at altitudes marked on the peaks). It’s useful to have a paper map because most of this route has no cell service. Finally, many Japanese hikers wear climbing helmets on this route to protect against falling rocks. You might also consider doing this.

Detailed Route Description

This route description starts in Kamikochi. For directions on how to get to Kamikochi, see Getting to Kamikochi at the end of this article. You’ll probably take a bus into Kamikochi. Take the bus to the last stop: the Kamikochi Bus Terminal.

At the bus terminal, you’ll find a few shops, public bathrooms, an information center, and a counter where you are supposed to file a “tozan-todoke” (hiking plan), so that rescuers will know where to look if you go missing.

The trail you want leaves from behind the main buildings. It’s marked in English and Japanese (you can usually just follow the crowds heading to Kappa-Bashi Bridge, which is the most famous photo spot in Kamikochi).

You’ll soon arrive at Kappa-Bashi, which crosses the clear waters of Azusa-Gawa River. You’ll see the imposing Hodaka Range rising in the background. This is a great spot for a pre-hike picture. Today, you’ll hike to Mae-Hodaka-Dake, the middle peak in the Hodakas.

Here’s a better view of the Hodakas, with the Azusa-Gawa in the foreground. Your route today will go up the left (west) side of the river, then along the rocky avalanche chute in the valley below the Hodakas, before ascending one of the forested buttresses up to the peak of Mae-Hodaka-Dake.

Before starting your ascent, you’ll pass through some marshy areas that allow you to admire the crystal-clear waters of the Azusa-Gawa.

You’ll soon come to a trail junction. Follow the arrow for Dake-Sawa (Mtn Trail). This leads into the woods (do not take the wide, flat trail).

At first, the trail climbs through some pleasant forest.

After half an hour or so of steady climbing, you’ll come alongside a rock-strewn avalanche path where you can get some nice views back down to the valley of Kamikochi.

About two hours or so after leaving the valley of Kamikochi, you’ll come to Dake-Sawa Koya. Here, you can get drinks, water, snacks or light meals.

After a rest, follow the sign for MaehodakaDake. It’s only 2.5km, but it’s a non-stop climb so be ready to sweat.

Here’s a view up the climb you’re about to do.

Here’s another view up the climb. The route ascends the forested buttress on the left side of the photo.

There are several ladders on the buttress. In the background, down below, you can see Dake-Sawa Koya.

You’ll start to see signs warning you against falls and falling rocks. This one also indicates that there is one-way traffic on this part of the trail.

To your left, as you climb, you’ll get great views of the steep wall below Nishi-Hodaka-Dake, the crest of which is one of the most feared knife-edge ridges in the North Alps.

As you ascend the buttress, you’ll get better and better views down over the valley of Kamikochi.

Near the top of the buttress, you’ll climb above treeline and the trail becomes a rock scramble, with some chains to help you ascend the steeper bits.

Here’s one of the chains installed on an exposed section of trail.

You’ll soon arrive at a flat stone platform known as Kimiko-Daira. This is a great place for a rest.

Many climbers leave their packs here and make the 30-minute climb to the actual summit of Mae-Hodaka-Dake

After climbing to the summit of Mae-Hodaka (if you so choose), pick up your pack and continue onward (and upward) to Oku-Hodaka-Dake. This is up and to the left from the direction you were traveling to get to Kimiko-Daira.

Before long, you’ll arrive at a sign marking Saitei Col, which is the lowest point on the ridge between Mae-Hodaka and Oku-Hodaka.

Here’s a good view of the route up to Oku-Hodaka. This is the first of the many knife-edge traverses on this route.

From the knife-edge, you’ll be able to get glimpses to the north and down into Kara-Sawa, one of the most popular campsites (and lodges) in the Japan Alps. In the fall foliage season, the valley floor will be dotted with tents of all colors.

Here’s another shot along the ridge leading to Oku-Hodaka.

This shot shows the route up to Oku-Hodaka and the ridge you will take tomorrow over to Kita-Hodaka. The place you will spend this evening, Hodaka-Dake Sanso, is hidden in the saddle behind Oku-Hodaka.

Here’s another shot of the route you’ll take for the rest of today and then tomorrow. You’ll be following this ridge the whole way.

Here’s a shot up the summit cone of Oku-Hodaka.

Here’s another shot down into Kara-Sawa. Look at all those tents!

Finally, you’ll get to the summit of Oku-Hodaka. Climb the cairn on the summit for the all-important summit photo.

There’s a trail junction at the summit. Follow the signs for Hotakadake Sanso (note that “Hodaka” is sometimes written as “Hotaka”).

Here’s a sign pointing to Hodaka-Dake Sanso (the hut where you’ll spend this night).

It’s a rocky scramble down to Hodaka-Dake Sanso. Be very careful about dislodging rocks onto climbers below you.

You’ll soon catch your first glimpse of Hodaka-Dake Sanso, nestled into the col below Oku-Hodaka.

Here’s a closer shot of Hodaka-Dake Sanso, with the campground in the background.

Here’s the reception area and rest area inside the hut.

Here’s the dining area.

Beside the reception counter, there’s a “baiten” (small store) where you can buy snacks, hot and cold drinks and so on.

Here’s the reception counter (“uketsuke” in Japanese).

Here are the rates:

• 1 night/2 meals (dinner/breakfast): Y10,300
• 1 night/dinner only: Y9.300
• 1 night/breakfast only: Y7,900
• 1 night/no meals: Y6,900
• lunchbox (bento): 1,000
• private room (above rates plus Y10,000)
• tent space: Y1,000

Here’s a typical bunkroom. When you check in, they’ll give you a card that has your room and bunk number written on it. They’ll also give you meal tickets.

Here’s the kansoshitsu (drying room), which is in front of the bathrooms. If you hang your clothes here, they’ll be dry by the morning.

Here’s the interior of the drying room.

Here’s the campground at Hodaka-Dake Sanso.

Here’s another view of the hut.

Here’s a view of yours truly enjoying the early evening views

Here’s the sunset from the viewing platform at the hut.

Here’s the dining room with dinner on the tables. The staff will direct you to an open seat. Japanese hikers will usually serve each other rice, miso soup and tea before digging in. If you can, it’s polite to help with this.

Here’s dinner at the hut. The bowl on the left is for your miso soup, while the cup on the right is for your tea. Don’t worry if you’re a solo hiker – someone will almost always strike up a conversation with you in English, usually starting with “Where are you from?” You’ll find that most Japanese hikers are an extremely friendly and welcoming lot. They’ll be very happy that you’re enjoying their beautiful mountains with them.

After dinner, you can chill out in the lounge, if you’re lucky enough to get a seat. They sell beer and sake at the store, so you can wind down with one of those, or some hot chocolate. Again, be ready for some polite questions from those around you.

Here’s the sunrise from the patio in front of the hut.

After breakfast, you’ll start the day with a climb up to Kara-Sawa-Dake. You’ll get some good views back down to Hodaka-Dake Sanso and the route you walked yesterday.

Once you get up on the ridge, you’ll be treated to a spine-tingling view of the entire rest of your route until Yari-ga-Take (which is obscured by clouds in this shot). The Daikiretto is the second col, roughly in the middle of the picture.

After crossing Kara-Sawa-Dake, you’ll start traversing some seriously exposed sections, many of which have chains, ladders and bolts to help you across.

Here’s another chain on the ridge.

In some places, you’ll have to climb or descend ladders to help you on steep bits.

Here’s a shot of the ridge heading along to Kita-Hodaka.

Here’s a nice morning shot into the wide Kara-sawa Valley.

Here’s a typical wall that you must traverse.

Here’s a close up of a party of hikers making their way along the wall, heading toward Hodaka-Dake Sanso. Needless to say, you should give way to climbers on steep bits, so only one party is on the exposed section at any time.

You’ll soon come to Kitahotaka-Dake Fork Junction. You can descend from here down into Kara-Sawa if you’re tired or if the weather is threatening. Otherwise, follow the sign for Mt Kitahotaka-Dake (0.2km).

Here’s another angle of the sign, showing the arrow pointing down into Karasawa.

About 200 meters after the sign, you’ll reach the summit of Kita-Hodaka-Dake. Just beyond the summit, you’ll see the roof of Kita-Hodaka-Dake Koya.

Just before you get to the hut, if the weather is clear, you’ll get a nice view of the Daikiretto traverse. Look at that knife-edge! This should get your blood pumping in anticipation.

Kita-Hodaka-Dake Koya hut is a good spot for a cup of coffee or tea to prepare yourself for the Daikiretto. And, if the weather is threatening, you could also spend a night here.

Here’s the start of the descent into the Daikiretto. Note that arrows indicating the route. Follow these!

In many places, circles mark the right way.

In other places, arrows show the way.

And, X’s mark the wrong way. Pay close attention to these as they indicate drops offs and cliffs.

Here’s the first peak on the knife-edge of the Daikiretto.

Here’s a view along the ridge to Hasegawa Peak, which is the high point on the Daikiretto.

Here’s a sign marking A-Sawa Col, which is the first col (low point) on the ridge.

Shortly after A Sawa Col, you’ll come to a wooden bridge that appears to lead into space.

Here’s a vertiginous climb below Hasegawa Peak. Note the iron rungs placed to help you ascend.

Here’s the final section leading up to Hasegawa Peak.

Here’s the sign at the top of Hasegawa Peak.

From Hasegawa Peak, you’ll get a nice view along the rest of the Daikiretto and on to Minami-Dake.

At the far (north) end of the Daikiretto, you’ll have to make your way up among the cliffs leading up to Minami-Dake.

Here’s a party picking their way down among those cliffs.

Very soon, you’ll reach the top of those cliffs and then walk a bit more and come to Minami-Dake Koya, which is a nice place for a rest after crossing the Daikiretto.

Here’s the interior of the hut. As usual, they serve drinks, water and food. You can also spend the night here if you’re tired or if the weather is poor.

Here are the rates for the hut. It’s Y10,300 for 1 night with dinner and breakfast.

After the hut, it’s a relatively easy climb up to the summit of Minami-Dake.

Here’s the summit of Minami-Dake.

From the ridge beyond Minami-Dake, you’ll start to get some great views of a feature called Byobu-no-Mimi, which towers over Kara-Sawa.

Continue along the ridge toward Naka-Dake. It’s a relatively gentle and easy walk compared to the hair-raising traverses you’ve already done today.

Here’s a view up to Naka-Dake. There’s supposed to be water here, but I could not find any in late September.

You’ll soon get some views across to the summit cone of Yari-ga-Take.

Here’s a sign indicating the way onward to Obami-Dake, the last peak you must climb before arriving at Yari-ga-Take Sanso and Yari-ga-Take.

Before Obami-Dake, you’ll have to cross a narrow col.

Here’s the summit cone of Obami-Dake.

Here’s the summit of Obami-Dake.

After crossing the peak of Obami-Dake, you’ll get some great views of Yari-ga-Take and Yari-ga-Take Sanso.

Here’s a close shot of the summit of Yari-ga-Take. Note the climbers on top and the ladders below the summit.

After descending from the peak of Obami-Dake, you’ll arrive at a col. You’ll see a sign pointing down to the left indicating Yari-Daira, which is the trail you’ll follow tomorrow. But, for now, continue straight on and climb up to Yari-ga-Take Sanso.

On the way up, you’ll pass through the campground below Yari-ga-Take Sanso. This is a shot looking down through the campground.

Just above the campground, you’ll find a sign indicating Yari-ga-Take, Shin-Hodaka Onsen and Hodaka-Dake.

Finally, you’ll come to Yara-ga-Take Sanso, your goal for the day.

After checking into the hut and taking a break, you should climb the summit cone of Yari-ga-Take. It’s a steep climb with chains and ladders to help you. Follow the arrows carefully and note that there are separate routes up and down for part of the way.

Here’s the actual summit of Yari-ga-Take. If the weather is clear, you will have mind-boggling views of the entire northern Japan Alps. I once spotted Mt Fuji from here on a very clear day.

Here’s a view down to the hut from the summit.

Here’s the view looking north toward Tsurugi-Dake, which towers above Murodo in the Tateyama Range.

If you’re lucky, you might get to see the alpenglow on Yari.

After spending the night at Yari-ga-Take Sanso, return back the way you came to the col below the campground. Follow the arrow indicating Yari-daira (槍平) and Shin-Hodaka Onsen (新穂高温泉).

There’s some beautiful alpine vegetation along the route down into Yari-Daira.

As you descend, you’ll gradually enter an area of alpine scrub. This is very attractive in early fall.

Before long, you’ll be back among the trees.

After about an hour, you’ll arrive at Yari-Daira Koya, which is a good place for a mid-morning coffee.

Below the hut, you’ll start to descend along the Takahara-Gawa River.

You’ll get to a creek crossing where, if you look up to your left, you’ll see Odaki Falls and, in most seasons, a snowfield.

Here’s the creek crossing.

Along the way, you’ll see some stunning, huge ezo spruce trees (“tohi” in Japanese).

A few kilometers further along, you’ll reach Shirade-Sawa, a major creek and avalanche chute that crosses the trail.

Here’s a trail sign at Shirade-Sawa.

Here’s another sign at Shirade-Sawa. Continue straight on down the valley on the wide trail in the direction of Shin-Hodaka Onsen (新穂高温泉).

At this point, the trail is actually a forest road.

The trail passes a paddock, which is a rare sight in Japan.

The paddock belongs to Hodaka-Daira Koya, a hut just a short distance above Shin-Hodaka Onsen.

The road meanders a bit, but before long, you’ll arrive at the top of Shin-Hodaka Onsen town.

The first major structure in town is the terminal for the Shin-Hodaka Ropeway (cable car). The bus stop for the bus back to Takayama is just outside this building.

You can buy your bus tickets inside the cable car terminal building.

Here’s the bus stop outside the terminal building. Note that there’s an “ashi-yu” (foot bath) outside the terminal building where you can soak your tired feet while you wait for the bus.

If you have time before you bus departs, walk about 150m downhill and take a soak in Nakazaki Sanso Onsen. Not only will it feel fantastic, but your fellow bus and train riders will appreciate your thoughtfulness. Note that there’s another bus stop just a bit downhill from the onsen.

Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take Hiking Route Map

Here is a Google Earth map of the entire route.

You can also view the full screen Kamikochi to Yari-ga-Take route map.

Getting to Kamikochi

Here, we describe how to get to Kamikochi from Takayama. Takayama is easily accessible from Kyoto, Osaka and Tokyo by taking the Tokaido shinkansen to Nagoya and switching to the Wide View Hida Limited Express train to Takayama. For full details on this route, visit our Takayama guide. Note, you can also reach Kamikochi from Nagano or Matsumoto. From Matsumoto, take a train to Shinshimashima Station, then a bus from there to Kamikochi.

To get from Takayama to Kamikochi, take a Takayama Nohi bus to Hirayu Onsen and then switch there for the bus to Kamikochi. With good connections the trip takes about 90 minutes and costs Y2730. Here’s where you board the bus in Takayama (boarding point #5).

The sign shows that buses from this stop go to Hirayu (which is the gateway to Kamikochi).

You should buy tickets before you board the bus. They are sold in the ticket office/tourist information office right next to the boarding points.

The ticket counter is on your right as you enter. The helpful ladies there can answer questions about schedules etc.

You’ll note that there are direct buses between Takayama and Kyoto, Osaka, Mt Fuji and Nagoya. Ask at the relevant tourist information centers for details.

Once you arrive at Hirayu, you’ll have to get off one bus then walk a few meters to the boarding point for the bus to Kamikochi. Ride this bus to the final stop: the Kamikochi Bus Terminal.

Note that during hiking season (June, July and August), there are direct buses from Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka right to the Kamikochi Bus Terminal. They run overnight so you can (hopefully) get some sleep on the bus and start hiking as soon as you arrive. As at the relevant tourist information office for details.

Recommended Accommodation in Kamikochi

Kamikochi Lemeiesta Hotel

(View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
A popular hotel with modern rooms and hot-spring baths.

Kamikochi Nishi-itoya Mountain Lodge

(View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
An old ryokan with a rustic feel and unparalleled mountain views.

Recommended Accommodation in Takayama

eph TAKAYAMA

(View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
A stylish, modern rooms above a cozy first floor cafe.

Oyado Koto No Yume

(View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
A traditional ryokan known for its soothing hot-spring baths.

Other Useful Hiking Information

• Hiking in Japan
• Best Kyoto Hikes
• Takayama Guide
• Mt Fuji Climbing Guide
• Walking the Nakasendo from Kyoto
• Kumano Kodo Walking Trail Guide

Kyoto District Map

Click a Kyoto District for detailed info on attractions, places to eat and accommodation