Located along the Kamogawa River, Pontocho Izumoya has been serving up deliciously tender and smoky eel for over a century now. As a bonus, it’s pretty tourist-friendly, too.
Pontocho Izumoya – image © Chris Rowthorn
Winding parallel to the Kamogawa River between Sanjo and Shijo bridges, the narrow, lantern-lined Pontocho Alley is a popular spot with tourists these days for its atmosphere and dozens of restaurants. One of the most hallowed along this street is Pontocho Izumoya, more commonly called Izumoya. They’re an unagi and kaiseki restaurant that’s been dishing out grilled eel to locals and visitors for over a century now.
Rather unusually, unagi at Izumoya is cooked in the Kanto-style rather than Kansai-style, meaning that it’s sliced along the back and steamed before grilling. This leaves it more tender throughout, practically melting in your mouth. It’s beautifully smoky too. They also use eel innards in the miso soup – that’s real top-to-tail eating for you!
Izumoya is a popular establishment right in the center of town, so if you go without a reservation, you might have to wait in line. Luckily, they have four floors of seating, and the wait usually isn’t too long. Go at lunchtimes if you’re on a budget – it’s always more reasonably priced then. Skip the shabu-shabu if you’re not feeling extravagant.
If you manage to get a windowside table overlooking the Kamo River, all the better. We like visiting in summer when they set up the verandah next to the river for outdoor dining. It doesn’t get more atmospheric than this on summer evenings!
For more Kyoto unagi choices, see our Best Unagi In Kyoto page.
Name in English:
Pontocho Izumoya
Name in Japanese:
先斗町 いづもや
English address:
173-2 Kashiwaya-cho, Pontocho-dori-Shijo-agaru, Nakagyo-ku
Japanese address:
中京区先斗町通四条上る柏屋町173-2
Opening hours:
11:30am-10pm
Price:
Non-smoking area: Completely Non-Smoking
Nearest Transport:
2min walk from Kawaramachi Station Exit 1A, Hankyu line
Reservations:
Possible
Telephone: 211-2501
Website:
Official site (Japanese)
Near To Here:
Pontocho Izumoya is located in Kyoto’s Downtown district. See our complete list of things to do in Downtown Kyoto, including places to eat, nightlife and places to stay.
Kyoto Vacation Checklist
- For all the essentials in a brief overview, see my First Time In Kyoto guide
- Check Kyoto accommodation availability on Booking.com and Agoda.com - often you can book with no upfront payment and free cancellation
- You can buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets online from Klook - popular routes include Tokyo to Kyoto, Kyoto to Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo
- Need tips on where to stay? See my one page guide Where To Stay In Kyoto
- See my comprehensive Packing List For Japan
- You can buy an eSim to activate in Japan or buy a data-only SIM card online for collection when you arrive at Tokyo's Narita or Haneda Airports or Kansai International Airport. You can also rent an unlimited data pocket wifi router
- Compare Japan flight prices and timings to find the best deals
- If you're making frequent train journeys during your visit, you might save money with Japan Rail Pass – see if it's worth it for you
- World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world
- Do you want help planning your trip? Chris Rowthorn and his team of Japan experts at Japan Travel Consulting can help