October 2022: Please note Sumibi Yakitori Chabuya has now permanently closed. Please see our Downtown Kyoto page for other places to eat in the district.
For smoky, charcoal-grilled yakitori with a dose of retro atmosphere, head over to Sumibi Yakitori Chabuya in downtown Kyoto. We love the “special meatball” and the fried chicken cartilage!
Sumibi Yakitori Chabuya – image © Chris Rowthorn
Who doesn’t love a good yakitori dinner? For a down-to-earth place to chow down on charcoal-grilled skewers and copious amounts of booze, you can’t go wrong with Sumibi Yakitori Chabuya – Chabuya for short – in downtown Kyoto.
The yakitori skewers at Chabuya are generally good to great. The “special meatball” is particularly good – it comes with a raw egg on the side for dipping. Veggie-lovers are reasonably well-catered for at Chabuya. Choose from a number of vegetable skewers like shiitake mushroom, eggplant, negi (Japanese leek) and more; each one is infused with smoky charcoal from the grill.
Besides the yakitori, the cartilage fried chicken is a must-try for texture fans – the crunchiness is utterly moreish. Japanese meals often finish with rice or similar carbohydrates, and at Chabuya, it’s great to end by slurping up a bowl of chicken ramen.
We like Chabuya not just for the food, but for the extra dose of old-timey atmosphere in the restaurant. For one thing, it’s down a narrow alley and a little difficult to find the first time – which is rather fun, like a hidden restaurant of sorts. Walk through the doors, with a red lantern glowing in the dark, and you’ll hear strains of enka (retro Japanese music) from the speakers. The waitstaff are on the younger side, but energetic and
Reservations at Chabuya are highly recommended, as you risk being turned away otherwise. They have an English-language menu to make ordering easier!
For more Kyoto yakitori choices, see our Best Yakitori in Kyoto page.
Name in English:
Sumibi Yakitori Chabuya
Name in Japanese:
炭火焼鳥 ちゃぶや
English address:
310-3 Uradeyama-cho, Nishikikoji-dori-Muromachi-higashiiru, Nakagyo-ku
Japanese address:
中京区錦小路通室町東入ル占出山町310-3
Opening hours:
6pm-1am
Closed Sunday
Price:
Non-smoking area: No
Nearest Transport:
3min walk from Karasuma Station Exit 22, Hankyu line or Shijo Station Exit 2, Karasuma subway line
Reservations:
Possible
Telephone: 255-1393
Website:
Official site (Japanese)
Kyoto Vacation Checklist
- For all the essentials in a brief overview, see my First Time In Kyoto guide
- Check Kyoto accommodation availability on Booking.com and Agoda.com - often you can book with no upfront payment and free cancellation
- You can buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets online from Klook - popular routes include Tokyo to Kyoto, Kyoto to Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo
- Need tips on where to stay? See my one page guide Where To Stay In Kyoto
- See my comprehensive Packing List For Japan
- You can buy an eSim to activate in Japan or buy a data-only SIM card online for collection when you arrive at Tokyo's Narita or Haneda Airports or Kansai International Airport. You can also rent an unlimited data pocket wifi router
- Compare Japan flight prices and timings to find the best deals
- If you're making frequent train journeys during your visit, you might save money with Japan Rail Pass – see if it's worth it for you
- World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world
- Do you want help planning your trip? Chris Rowthorn and his team of Japan experts at Japan Travel Consulting can help
