Zen Meditation at Kosei-ji Temple in Kyoto

If you want to experience Japanese religion first-hand, there’s no better way than trying “zazen” (seated meditation) at a Zen temple in Kyoto. In my quest to find a truly authentic Zen experience that is accessible to foreigners, I tried a zazen experience at Kyoto’s Kosei-ji Temple. I’m happy to report that it’s the real deal.

Zen is the sect of Japanese Buddhism that has always held the most appeal for foreigners. It’s easy to understand why: Zen dispenses with abstractions and philosophical discussion and focuses instead on direct experience. This direct experience comes in the form of “zazen,” which means seated meditation.

Kyoto is full of Zen temples including Tofuku-ji, Kennin-ji and Myoshin-ji. While some of these temples offer zazen experiences, they’re usually conducted completely in Japanese and are impenetrable to foreigners. Having previously tried a good zazen experience at Daitoku-ji organized by Wabunka, a company that specializes in authentic Japanese cultural experiences, I was eager to give it another go.

This time, the experience was held at Kosei-ji Temple, a temple which is usually closed to the public. Kosei-ji is located on the west side of the city center, a short walk from the intersection of Marutamachi and Senbon streets. When I arrived at the temple on the day of the experience, I discovered that it’s part of a cluster of quiet temples in a largely residential area.

I arrived early and was standing outside admiring the gate when a priest appeared from inside and gave me a friendly greeting. We spoke in Japanese for a while and I realized he was the head priest of the temple who would conduct the zazen experience. Soon after, the Wabunka interpreter arrived and introduced herself as Yoshi (Wabunka always provides interpreters and I wanted to experience this as a foreign tourist would).

The head priest, Miyazaki-san, welcomed us into the temple. We had a quick look at the front garden and then entered the main hall. He invited us to look at the central Buddhist image of the temple, a fine standing Kanzeon figure said to date to the Heian Period (794-1185 A.D.). Kanzeon (also known as Kannon) is a Bodhisattva commonly known in English as the “Goddess of Mercy.” Standing in flowing robes in the dim light of the inner sanctum, the figure seemed to radiate a calm energy.

Miyazaki-san then pointed to a wooden plaque (ema) hanging on the wall with a fading painting of a cat. He explained that the cat used to transform into a beautiful woman at the sound of a shamisen (Japanese string instrument) causing uproar in the neighborhood, but it had been confined to the plaque by one of the temple priests using the power of Buddhism. Miyazaki-san, Yoshi and I mused that perhaps the woman might still appear from time to time to prowl her old haunts.

After this tour of the main hall, Miyazaki-san led us to the porch of the temple, which overlooks a superb karesansui (dry “Zen” garden). He explained that the garden was designed by Shigemori Mirei, a modernist garden designer who laid out over 180 gardens in the mid 1900s. Mirei designed several of my favorite gardens in Kyoto, including the iconic checkerboard garden at Tofuku-ji and a small side garden at Shinyo-do. Then, he invited us to speculate about the moss and stone “islands” in the middle of the garden. He pointed out that when viewed from above, they form the character for “heart” (kokoro). He also showed how one rock represents the Buddha and the others his disciples. He then made the wonderful observation that through zazen, we might become able to view our inner world with the calm empathy with which Buddha viewed his disciples.

Now, it was time to get down to business. Miyazaki-san instructed Yoshi and me to sit on cushions facing the garden, while he sat facing us on another cushion. He showed us how to sit in a lotus position (or half-lotus or simply legs crossed, depending upon one’s flexibility) and how to hold our hands. He then gave a very brief explanation of what we were going to do. He asked us to imagine how we feel when we do something we are really good at: a state of being engrossed in something without consciously trying to get there. The goal was to achieve a calm but not rigid frame of mind. He remarked that it’s relatively easy to put our body and breathing in order, but very difficult to put our mind in order. But by doing so, we would find balance even in the midst of the chaos of everyday life.

Miyazaki-san rang a bell to start the session. Needless to say, my caffeine-charged monkey mind took this as the cue to flit from idea to idea, charging through To Do lists, bees in my bonnet, things I wanted to eat, unmentionable desires, and pains and itches scattered around my body. But, as time passed, my mind eased into the calm atmosphere that pervaded the temple, and for brief moments I had lovely moments of mental stillness.

I could have sat in that calm space for much longer, but all too soon, Miyazaki-san rang the bell to end the session. We then discussed our experiences. Miyazaki-san listened carefully and responded with thoughtful comments. We then adjourned to seats at a table in the main hall. Miyazaki-san disappeared and returned with bowls of matcha and traditional sweets for us, which we enjoyed while chatting with him.

Before leaving, Miyazaki-san gave me a copy of a Buddhist sutra along with a brush and ink stone. He instructed me to trace the sutra with the brush and then write my name and wish beside the sutra. I could just about feel my old shodo teacher looking over my shoulder and tut-tutting my terrible brushwork, but somehow I finished the sutra and my wish. I left them with Miyazaki-san to present to the Buddha.

Walking out of the temple, I felt rested and recharged. The feeling stayed with me for a long while and colored the next few days in Kyoto.

Would I Recommend This Experience?

I would recommend this experience to anyone interested in Japanese religion. Miyazaki-san’s explanations and instructions were perfect: not too much, not too little, and always easy to grasp. But more importantly, it’s clear that he is a man who practices what he preaches. His very being was the best “instruction” in zazen. Set against the backdrop of a beautiful and private temple, it’s an experience that will likely stick with you for a long time.

How to Book a Zazen Meditation at Kosei-ji Temple

As mentioned above, this experience was organized by Wabunka. I found them extremely easy to deal with. The provided clear details about the event, the guide’s contacts and directions for getting to the temple. You can book direct with Wabunka.

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