A machiya (traditional townhouse) combines the best features of a ryokan, a boutique hotel and a vacation rental. A company named Old Kyoto operates four of the finest machiya in Kyoto, all located near downtown and the sightseeing districts. Like luxury hotels, they have a concierge service to help with restaurant reservations and other travel details.

Gion street
Why Stay In A Machiya?
Like a ryokan, a machiya is a traditional Japanese dwelling, so it’s perfect for those who really want the full Japanese experience – Japanese design, architecture and ambiance. But unlike a ryokan, where you frequently interact with staff, a machiya offers the freedom and convenience of a vacation rental: you come and go as you please and there is no formality so you can really let your hair down. Best of all, most machiya have been updated with Western conveniences like excellent showers (in addition to baths), Western-style beds instead of futons, microwaves, refrigerators and coffee makers.

The Old Modern Garden Suite
Old Kyoto Machiya
Old Kyoto is a group of four machiya – Indigo House, The Gion House, Amber House and The Old Modern – that have been beautifully restored by a long-term American resident of Japan. Three of the houses are tucked away in a quiet neighborhood beside a beautiful temple in the heart of Gion. Another is located near Gojo Street, within walking distance of Kiyomizu-dera Temple. I’ve stayed in several of the units and they’ve been fantastic: quiet, comfortable, and spacious. And I’ve been recommending them to my consulting clients for years and they rave about them. Check the map below to see how convenient these machiya are: You can walk from any of them to downtown, southern Higashiyama or Kyoto Station within 20 minutes or so.

Old Kyoto map
Concierge Service
The thing that sets Old Kyoto apart from other machiya and most hotels is their concierge service. In this age of overtourism, being able to get reservations at good local restaurants is becoming the Holy Grail of Japan travel. Old Kyoto have dedicated bilingual concierges whom you can reach by email or phone and they can recommend and reserve restaurants for you. They work from a deep database based on decades of working in Japan and serving well-heeled travelers. They can also receive suitcases sent via luggage delivery services (and help you send them to your next destination). And, of course, they can answer any questions you might have about Kyoto.

The Old Modern interior garden
Features Of Old Kyoto Machiya

Indigo House upper level bed
Raised Beds
The main beds in Old Kyoto machiya are raised on platforms, just like Western beds. I’ve found these beds amazingly comfortable and luxurious. In some of the larger houses, which have multiple bedrooms, there are also futons on the floor that are great for children (my kids loved them).

The Old Modern Star Suite fridge and microwave
Refrigerators And Microwave Ovens
If you’re staying multiple days, it’s great to be able to prepare a simple meal or two so you can take a break from restaurants. I often buy some sashimi, rice and salad from the Takashimaya Department Store food floor and bring it back to eat in my unit.

The Old Modern Nespresso machine and fixings
Coffee Or Espresso Makers
If you’re like me, the day doesn’t begin until that first cup of coffee. Each suite at The Old Modern unit comes with a Nespresso machine and a generous selection of cartridges. The houses in Gion have standard coffee makers with a supply of locally roasted coffee beans. These provide the fuel for my daily research in Kyoto.
Big Black Books
On the coffee table in each unit, you will find a black folder containing an amazing assortment of useful information, including a neighborhood map which shows a carefully curated selection of restaurants, cafes and shops. The owner of Old Kyoto has exquisite taste and I’ve found some of my favorite places in these folders – the inside information in these folders will seriously level up your trip!

The Old Modern Garden Suite washing machine
Washer/Dryers
Even if your hotel has laundry facilities, they’re probably not in your room, so you have to wander the halls and elevators with coins, detergent and clothes, all while you’d rather be chilling in your room. All the Old Modern units have en suite washer/dryer machines, so you can relax or go eat while doing your laundry.
Old Kyoto Machiya At A Glance
Here are the four Old Kyoto machiya units:

The Gion House exterior
The Gion House
Just steps from Kennin-ji Temple and the Gion geisha district, the superb house feels like worlds away. It’s divided into two superb self-contained units, upper and lower. I’ve stayed in both and really enjoyed them – they feel like a sanctuary in Kyoto.

Amber House exterior
Amber House Gion
Just around the corner from the Gion House is Amber House, which is an immaculate traditional Kyoto house. This house has not been subdivided – you rent the entire house, making it perfect for families with older children, two couples or small groups (Amber House can accommodate from 2 to 4 people). If you want to experience having your own home in Kyoto, Amber House is the way to go.

Indigo House lower level
Indigo House Gion
Across the street from Amber House is Indigo House, which has been divided into two units, upper and lower. I haven’t stayed in Indigo House, but I’ve inspected both units and they are gorgeous. Look at the pics on this page or visit the Old Kyoto site. These would be perfect for a romantic getaway or honeymoon in Kyoto.

The Old Modern Deco Suite
The Old Modern
As the name suggests, The Old Modern is a traditional Japanese machiya built with several modernist features (it was built in 1928 as Japan was opening to the West). It consists of two joined houses built around a lovely little Japanese garden. Each house is divided into two suites, for a total of four suites. I’ve stayed in three of the suites and found them to be incredibly comfortable. I love the airy and light feeling of the Deco Suite and the spacious beauty of the Star Suite. The Old Modern is located near Gojo Street, and I frequently walk to both downtown and Kyoto Station from here. When I walk to downtown, I cut through the Miyagawa geisha district and frequently see maiko (geisha) on their way to appointments.
How To Book Old Modern Machiya
First, note that all Old Modern units have a three- to five-night minimum stay and all guests must be at least seven years of age. Go to the Old Kyoto site and click “Book Now” to check availability on their calendar. We recommend booking as early as possible because they tend to book out a few months in advance. But don’t give up if you don’t have much lead time – you can often find vacancies if your dates and preferences are flexible.

The Old Modern Library
If Old Kyoto Is Full
If the Old Modern is full, there are several other great machiya in Kyoto. Check our Kyoto Machiya page for some more options.
Where Are These Places Located?
- Open the Kyoto map
- You will see the list of places on the left hand side. (Click the 3-line icon in the top left corner if not). Scroll down or use the map search (the magnifying glass icon) to find the place you want.
- Click the name of the place in the list. Its location pin will be highlighted on the map.
- Map pins are color coded - BLUE: Hotels | VIOLET: Ryokan | PINK: Places to Eat | YELLOW: Things to See and Do
- If you're using the map on your phone, open the map and then search for the name of the place. The map will then zoom in on its location.
Kyoto Vacation Checklist
- ESSENTIALS – For all the essentials in a brief overview, see my First Time In Kyoto guide
- HOTELS – Check Kyoto accommodation availability on Booking.com and Agoda.com - often you can book with no upfront payment and free cancellation
- BULLET TRAIN – You can buy shinkansen (bullet train) tickets online from Klook - popular routes include Tokyo to Kyoto, Kyoto to Osaka and Kyoto to Tokyo
- WHERE TO STAY – Need tips on where to stay? See my one page guide Where To Stay In Kyoto
- PACKING LIST – See my comprehensive Packing List For Japan
- SIM CARDS – You can buy an eSim to activate in Japan or buy a data-only SIM card online for collection when you arrive at Tokyo's Narita or Haneda Airports or Kansai International Airport. You can also rent an unlimited data pocket wifi router
- FLIGHTS – Compare Japan flight prices and timings to find the best deals
- JAPAN RAIL PASS – If you're making frequent train journeys during your visit, you might save money with Japan Rail Pass – see if it's worth it for you
- TRAVEL INSURANCE – World Nomads offers simple and flexible travel insurance. Buy at home or while traveling and claim online from anywhere in the world
- WANT HELP? – Do you want help planning your trip? Chris Rowthorn and his team of Japan experts at Japan Travel Consulting can help
Kyoto District Map
Click a Kyoto District for detailed info on attractions, places to eat and accommodation
About InsideKyoto.com and Chris Rowthorn
- Chris Rowthorn is the co-founder of InsideKyoto.com and has an unparalleled travel knowledge of Kyoto spanning three decades. Chris has written or commissioned and edited every page on the Inside Kyoto website.
- A former author of Lonely Planet Kyoto and Lonely Planet Japan guidebooks, Chris is also the director of the Kyoto walking tour company Chris Rowthorn Tours, and Japan Travel Consulting, where you can get bespoke travel advice for your Japan trip.
- InsideKyoto.com has been cited by the New York Times and The Times of London, among many other publications and websites.